Adventures on a Bus

I was warned about taking the bus, but as the typical Megan usual does, I went with my plans rather than warnings of others. You know, you hear different things all around, so who are you supposed to listen to?

I left Luanshya at 6am to be at the station leaving at 7:20am. I then traveled to Lusaka on bus, 4 hours and stopping only once for the toilet to find masses of women waiting in lines to get some relief. I avoided drinking water as I knew it would be trouble for me. The stench was overwhelming and the task difficult. Hold onto purse, lift trousers up from floor to avoid soakage, squat over disgusting toilet, hold nose from breathing in, then try to focus on what you are trying to do....it is exciting to say the least.

The man sitting next to me was a Christian and asked a lot of questions about God, why the middle east was at war, all sorts of things that I didn't have answers for. I am finding it a bit empowering to have my answer be "I don't know"...cause I don't, I don't' have the answers for everything. I mean, I know I look like a person who should, but surprisingly, I don't :)

I arrived in Lusaka at 11:45 and my next bus was to leave at Noon. There was a man there who had booked my ticket for me so I met up with him, paid him, and went to wait for my bus. Swarms of Caponias (vendors and sweet talkers) surrounded me asking to take my bags for only a mear K20,000 which is absolutely ridiculous. I enjoy being more of a local and understanding when someone is trying to rip me off. I fought with the guys and found a nice girl there who helped me with my bags. Finding a seat was a chore when the bus arrived. My only view was of a two seat bench, already taken by a mother with two small children offering me the other seat that my elbow might not even squeeze into. I felt like crying, getting that hot feeling in my eyes as I walked back to the front of the bus to tell my new friend that it was impossible. A man heard me and offered me a seat at the front that he had his bag in. It was a huge blessing!

The bus ended up leaving at 2pm, so much for rushing, and after 30 minutes was pulled over by the police. Threatened to make us turn back they had to pay off the police to let us continue. The issue was a big one. Our 60 passenger bus was filled to the top inside. There was no aisle in which to walk but only a jungle gym of sorts to crawl your way through. bags were everywhere and I was sure if there was an accident it would be almost impossible for us to get out of the bus.

I hoped to read or write during the ride but this was no luxury bus, it was a lucky to have a seat for the entire ride type of bus. During this 10 trek to the border we stopped once, yes, ONCE. The ladies all ran for the toilet and found a cement structure with a piece of wood in front of the door opening to squeeze through to get inside. Mosquitoes swarmed over the steamy troughs in the floor and women found any spot they could to relieve themselves. No privacy, not a time for modesty, just a time to get things done. It was disgusting and a bit embarrassing to have a crowded room full of half-clothed women. One of the women looked at me and said, "after your done just forget about this." somehow I think we expect because this is normal for most African toilets that they must be okay with it, but I don't think anyone could enjoy that...they endure it because that is the only option. I personally would rather go behind a bush.

Upon getting back into the bus I noticed a small roach on my seat, I brushed it off and became aware of a swarm of roaches crawling through the bench in front of me. Time to practice mind over matter I tried to block it out and be okay, heck, everyone else had to be so why not me! I couldn't get it out of my head though, stamping my feet randomly on the floor and batting at anything that brushed against me I was a paranoid girl for the rest of the journey.

I drifted off to sleep after the border and woke to find we were in Lilongwe. It looked to me like the streets of Guatemala so I liked it right away. I only made this quick observation and drifted back to sleep. My bed was to be my bus seat for the rest of the evening since I arrived around 2:30 in the morning. Most of the passengers did the same so we all slept in our seats parked at the bus station. One man was snoring loudly. I was woken around 4:30am to a bright light and music coming from the bus. Time to off-load so they could clean and prepare for the next trip. I sat shivering on the cement steps of the station with the other ladies. The only white girl around as usual. I was exhausted. I had no SIM card to phone in Malawi so I had to wait for the stores to open to tell my ride that I was there. Around 5:30 one of the ladies escorted me to the corner and pointed where I could get a SIM card. I trekked down the block, rolling my suitcase behind me, trying not to notice all the attention pointed towards me as I walked. I came to Malawi with 500 Malawian Kwacha. The SIM card was 400 Kwacha and the smalled amount of talk time available was 70 Kwacha. It was enough for me to send a text message so I did. with only 30 kwacha to my name I sat at the Gas station and hoped that my ride would be able to find me well.

When I was picked up I was told that I slept and walked through the most dangerous area in all of Lilongwe. Good times! :) Ignorance truly is bliss I must say. I felt like a hero, empowered by God's protection and blessings.

Arriving at the guesthouse after 24 hours of bus rides felt like stepping into paradise. My body was so exhausted, dirty, and hungry without a meal all day as well. I welcomed the early continental breakfast and then took a bath, the first luxury bath I've had in almost 8 months. I felt spoiled. It is truly amazing that hot water still comes from taps in parts of this world. I wish it came out of my taps at home! I soaked, my aim to rid my body of the deep dirt that covered my body. I scrubbed three months of Zambian dirt of my feet, and felt truly clean for the first time in a LONG time.

I am happy to be here, looking forward to seeing JR, Karl, Theresa, and being part of Malawi for some time.

I planned on taking another bus to Mozambique once I leave...I am re-thinking that idea :)